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Thinking of upgrading or hiring a Sony flash? In this post, we break down the key differences between the Sony HVL-F60RM Mark I and the newer Mark II. From faster recycle times to improved heat resistance, find out whether the Mark II is worth the hire — and which model best suits your next shoot.
The Exposure Triangle illustrates the relationship between three aspects of a camera’s controls which together adjust the overall exposure of a photograph. These three variables are “shutter speed”, “aperture” and “ISO”.
Sandra shoots mostly family portraits in the studio and on location, but when asked by a relative to take some photos of their AirBNB property, she was floored by the problems she was encountering in her pictures and her client was not happy. The answer to this problem involves Linear Perspective and Exposure Bracketing.
Lighting for photography and videography can be divided into two types: lights that flash on and off once called “strobes” or “flash”, and there lights which are continuously on, aptly named “continuous” or “constant” lighting. As a beginner, or even as an avid natural light photographer, choosing the right kind of light for your project or job can be a little daunting or even intimidating, so let’s break it all down into some digestible components.
Answers to why: My flash won’t fire… My flash is too bright or too dark… My flash is unflattering… My batteries are running out too quickly… My flash is taking a long time to recycle… The colour of my photos is unnatural…There are ugly shadows behind my subjects
When first bouncing flash, many people will bounce the light straight up off the ceiling. This works to create a softer light source, however it creates a look called ‘panda eyes’, resulting in circular shadows over the subjects eyes. There are a couple of solutions to fix this. In a smaller room, rather than pointing the light straight up, the best place to bounce light is off both the ceiling and wall behind the photographer.
For outdoor events or in huge function halls, the choices are limited for a photographer. Using a front-facing flash maybe the best option, or using a diffusing modifier can help.
While using automatic mode on your flash and camera will yield good results for a majority of the time, there is the potential to get better results by having manual control over some settings. The mode we choose will determine if the brightness of the flash will be controlled by you or the camera.
Using the flash compensation dial or buttons on the flash is the fastest way to adjust your exposure without adjusting any of your camera settings.
In event environments, exposure comes down to some personal taste and it isn’t uncommon for photographers to have different approaches to choosing their settings. Here are suggestions are a good place for beginners to start: